We slipped out of Dover Marina at first light on 18 August 2016, with flat water, no wind, and a long day ahead. The sky was streaked with early colour, and the forecast had promised light conditions, but as always, the English Channel had other ideas.
We motored west out of the Western Entrance, settled into a steady 7 knots, and pointed the bow toward Dungeness, the first major headland on our route. The early part of the passage was smooth and uneventful, the sea almost glassy, with only the gentle thrum of the engine and the occasional passing ship for company.
Progress was steady for the first few hours. Folkestone, Hythe, and Dymchurch drifted past in the distance. We kept just offshore of the firing ranges, with barely a breath of wind and good visibility all the way.
Not long before Dungeness, the forecast proved itself a little optimistic. The wind began to build, right on the nose. What had been a comfortable cruise quickly turned into a slog. With the headland curving out into the Channel and the breeze funnelling directly against us, we found ourselves slamming into short, steep waves. For three solid hours, the boat pitched and crashed, progress slowed, and everything on board became a little less tidy. The motion was tiring and relentless, the kind of sailing where you stare at your GPS and will the decimal points to move.
Once we cleared the worst of Dungeness, things began to ease. We found some relief as we made our way past Rye Bay, rounding Beachy Head in the late afternoon. The breeze dropped back and the sea settled, letting us push on under engine once again. It was a relief to be back in rhythm.
As we closed on Selsey Bill, the last of the daylight faded and navigation lights took over. The familiar approach into the Solent felt almost like home waters, and we entered Portsmouth Harbour with the last of the twilight behind us, contacting Portsmouth QHM on VHF Channel 11 for clearance.
By the time we were tied up, engine off, and enjoying something warm, we were well and truly ready to call it a day. A long, tough passage, but satisfying in the way only a hard-earned landfall can be.
- Cruising speed: 7 knots under engine
- Challenging section: Three hours of head-on wind and chop approaching Dungeness
- VHF channels: Portsmouth QHM – Channel 11
- Arrival: Late evening into Portsmouth Harbour with helpful clearance and calm entry
A day that started deceptively easy, threw up a challenge in the middle, and rewarded us with the quiet satisfaction of arriving in familiar waters. This one had a bit of everything.